Hairy Bikers: Route 66 – BBC 2

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What a lovely programme this was – a real joy to watch.  No-one sniping at or about anyone, no-one telling anyone else what to do, no-one trying to score political points.  Just two very nice men on a trip along America’s Route 66 (and it included a lot of American history, OK, so I wasn’t just watching it for the food!), being welcomed everywhere they went, and respecting all the different cultural traditions – including Italian, African American, Amish and Bosnian – they experienced.  Well done, guys,  This was great.  The food looked great too.  Especially the apple pie!

The first leg of the journey took them from Chicago to St Louis.  It started with a lot of talk about Chicago’s historic meat-packing industry (see, I said it was historical!) and how that attracted large numbers of Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  We got Italian beef sandwiches, and heard about how the restaurant concerned had started as a cover for an illegal gambling den!   Then we heard about the movement of large numbers of African Americans from the Deep South to Chicago, and how barbecued rib tips became a speciality at African American restaurants.

Moving on into rural areas of Illinois, they visited the small towns of Atlanta, which was prospering, and Lincoln, which sadly wasn’t, and heard about how Route 66 brought business to small communities along the way.  And they got some amazing-looking apple pie!

They were then invited to visit an Amish community, on the understanding that they didn’t film anyone’s faces, and heard about the Amish traditions and way of life.  They were actually asked into the kitchen to do some of the cooking.  Meat loaves!

Finally, they visited a Bosnian (I assume Bosnian Muslim, from the names?) community, in St Louis – which apparently has the largest Bosnian community outside the Balkans.  I wouldn’t personally have picked baklava, which I’m not keen on, but never mind!  We were told how the restaurant there was a real community hub, and a focal point for new immigrants looking for help settling in.

They’re going to be meeting many more communities, including Native American communities, in future episodes.  I look forward to watching them.  This was just really, really, lovely – and the world needs more loveliness!  Dave and Si are great.  And, hey, food is great!  Even it is full of calories …

Living in the Shadow of World War II – More4

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Programmes about the history of food are always interesting, and the effect of food rationing during the Second World War is still with us. Apple crumble and carrot cake, anyone 🙂 ? My fridge is full of leftover bits and pieces, even fruit that’s starting to go off, because my grandparents’ generation trained my generation never to throw good food away. This programme managed to cover all sorts of things in under an hour – glorious terms such as “National Loaf” and the “Rural Pie Scheme”, some strange revelations about the testing carried out by nutritionists, the Dig For Victory scheme, mobile demonstration vans showing people how to make eggless cakes, issues with knicker elastic, how being Land Girls made life easier for lesbians, “Doctor Carrot” (with very odd-looking shoes) and, of course, queues. You’d think they’d have mentioned that Lord Woolton, the Minister for Food (and only a “lord” since 1939) grew up just round the corner from Old Trafford, though. I mean, I’d have said that in the first few minutes.  What came across really well was what a good job the authorities did of managing a difficult situation, and how they really tried to make it as fair as possible.

I’m not sure that I really needed to know that nutritionists were analysing what came out as well as what went in, but, OK, it made the point that there was serious scientific research going on into what people needed to eat in order to remain healthy. Whilst the Nazis allowed people not considered to be part of the master race only 450 calories a day, and the Soviets prioritised the transport of armaments even if it meant food supplies running short, the government here really did try to make sure that no-one went without – even though, by late 1942, pretty much all types of food other than vegetables were on ration, and it wasn’t always possible to get certain items even if you had the coupons for them.

All that queuing! And then trying to feed yourself and the rest of your household on whatever you’d managed to get. My grandmas and great-aunts used to keep ridiculous amounts of non-perishable foodstuffs in stock, because they never quite got past the psychological impact of coping with rationing. And it was a huge amount of work for shopkeepers. The programme talked about all the detailed record-keeping that had to be done, especially when people wanted to take only part of their weekly ration and come back for the rest another day, and people remembered little arguments over things like whether or not the weight of the paper that the food was wrapped in should be taken into account. And, OK, there was a fair bit of black market activity going on, despite the large fines and two year prison sentences that could be imposed for it, but people were generally very accepting of the situation. There were no food riots, even though everyone must have got thoroughly fed up (no pun intended) with it all.

So much thought and work went into it all. What a contrast to the times of food shortages in earlier periods of time, when the less well-off were just left to suffer. Famously, even the Royal Family were subject to rationing, and we heard Eleanor Roosevelt’s account of being served off gold and silver plates on a visit to Buckingham Palace, but only getting the same amount and type of food that was available to everyone else, including “National Loaf” bread – which must have been very good for you, because it contained extra calcium and vitamins, but which apparently looked and tasted bloody awful. Price caps were put on the amount that restaurants could charge for a meal, to ensure that it didn’t become a case of the rich eating out all the time whilst everyone else had to cope on rations, and subsidies were given to the least well-off.

It didn’t mention school dinners, which was a shame, but I suppose they couldn’t cover everything. We did hear about British Restaurants, though – and how they got their patriotic name because Churchill thought that terms like “community feeding centres” sounded too socialist! It wouldn’t be a bad idea to bring something like that back. And the wonderfully-named Rural Pie Scheme, providing pies for farm workers. A lot of voluntary work was involved. Then there were the “mobile demonstration vans”, doing their eggless cake demos! Austerity food like apple crumbles and carrot cakes are still very popular … although some of the other stuff mentioned, including horse meat and (immediately after the fall of Norway) whale meat, didn’t go down very well even at the time. It seems a bit unfair that game wasn’t rationed, seeing as people in inner city areas would have had far less access to it than those in rural areas, but I suppose there was no practical way of monitoring it.

The programme talked a lot about the campaigns to help people cope with rationing and promote healthy eating, as well. There seemed to be a lot of films, which presumably people only got to see if they went to the cinema, although wireless programmes were also mentioned. Doctor Carrot, with a top hat, glasses and some very odd-looking shoes, helping fighter pilots to see in the dark!  A lot of it sounds horrendously patronising now, especially as the voiceovers were always by men, at a time when nearly all the cooking would have been done by women, and always in those terribly posh accents that all BBC announcers used to speak in, but the authorities really were trying hard to make sure people could manage.

We also heard a bit about the Dig For Victory scheme, including film of Aintree racecourse, a golf club and parts of the royal estates being dug up. It was all so well-organised. I hate to sound like some old biddy going on about how everything was done better back in the day, but imagine if the people in charge of, say, rolling out Universal Credit had been in charge of distributing ration coupons or encouraging people to Dig For Victory. Domestic food production levels rocketed. Farm labourers’ wages went way up! People volunteered to help bring in the harvest. The Land Girls did incredibly important work – some of it, especially for those in the Timber Corps, extremely physically demanding.

The programme also touched on how the war was quite liberating for those women, with particular reference to lesbians, and also briefly mentioned clothes rationing – with specific reference to painting your legs to make it look as if you were wearing stockings, and the potential issues that a shortage of elastic could cause with underwear! – and petrol rationing, but it was mostly about food. It says a lot about how attitudes had changed. I’ve got the Napoleonic Wars on the brain at the moment, because of the Peterloo bicentennial, and there were terrible food shortages then, with people just left to cope as best they could, food riots breaking out, and then, after the wars, the Corn Laws making it all worse. During the Second World War (I do wish people would not talk about “World War II”, as if it were a film franchise), things really were pretty well-organised – and, as we’re always being told, the health of the working-classes actually improved.

I don’t know why this series was shoved in a graveyard slot, on More4 rather than on Channel 4 itself, because there’s usually a lot of interest in the Home Front during the Second World War. There are two more episodes, which I haven’t had chance to watch yet. I’m looking forward to them: this was great.

Mary Berry’s Easter Feast – BBC 2

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Word PressJust think how much better a place the world would be if the only thing anyone did in the name of religion was to eat. This was such a lovely, happy, gentle take on Easter, with Mary Berry preparing an “Easter Feast” including both traditional British dishes and food from a variety of other cultures now represented in the UK. We also saw her enjoying an Easter egg hunt with her young grandchildren, and most National Trust properties and a lot of other venues are putting on Easter egg hunts over the long weekend.

Food symbolism is fascinating, and there’s a lot of that associated with Easter. It was quite moving, with the second programme of the two being broadcast, by an unfortunate coincidence, on the day of the horrific atrocities in Brussels, to see the preparation of the Italian “Colomba di Pasqua” cake, baked in (as the name suggests!) the shape of a dove, a symbol of peace. The Greek dishes were particularly interesting because they were so heavily imbued with symbolism, as so much associated with Greek Orthodoxy is. Nice to see Russian Easter bread included as well, although of course it’s several weeks yet until Easter will be marked in Russia.

Food from lots of other traditions too.   This was about Easter – well, it would be, seeing as it was called “Mary Berry’s Easter Feast” 😉 – but you could make similar programmes about major festivals in other religions, because most of them have particular foods associated with them. These days, with imports and preservatives, the idea of seasonal foods doesn’t apply much any more, because you can get things in the supermarkets all year round, but there’s still something special about eating particular foods at the “right” time of year, whether it’s something associated with a religious occasion (pancakes on Shrove Tuesday, mince pies at Christmas, etc) or whether it’s parkin on Bonfire Night or strawberries and cream during Wimbledon.

Likewise, you can get food from all over the world in the supermarkets these days, but there’s still something special about eating food in the “right” places. Sachertorte at a Kaffeehaus in Vienna, beignets in New Orleans, a croissant and a pain au chocolat for breakfast in France, ice cream in Italy, smaretter in Denmark, blinis in Russia, falafels and pitta bread in the Middle East … all right, all right, no wonder my life has been one long battle with my weight! Even within the UK, there’s something very nice about eating Kendal Mint Cake in the Lake District, bara brith in Wales, oatcakes in Scotland, and so on!

Oh, and, speaking about both Easter and regional foods, I’ve always found it very strange that you never seem to be able to find Bury simnel cakes (big fruity bun type things, as opposed to the usual simnel cakes with marzipan, which are Shrewsbury simnel cakes) in the Bury area. The only places I’ve ever seen them are branches of Bettys, which is a bit mad considering that Bettys is such a Yorkshire icon and Bury simnels come from Lancashire! However, I was in Ramsbottom – just north of Bury, and a place with very strong Eastertide traditions, one of two places in Lancashire (the other being Preston) closely associated with egg rolling – at the weekend, for the annual Chocolate Festival J, and I’ve been advised that the Red Hall (the place you pass on the right as you head up the A56 towards Ramsbottom, just before Park Farms) serves Bury simnels as part of its Lancashire afternoon tea. So now I can stop worrying about it! I don’t particularly want to eat a load of Bury simnel cakes: it’s just always annoyed me that they never seem to be available in the Bury area! And, whilst I’m on the subject of Bury, I note that the Bury Pace Eggers put on a number of performances over the weekend. Pace egging pretty much died out after the First World War, but it’s been revived in East Lancashire and West Yorkshire, and it’s nice to see an old tradition kept going.

I’ve now got totally off the point :-).   Back to Mary Berry and her food! This was a feast for Easter Day, so the tradition of eating fish on Good Friday – watch out for the queues outside Armstrong’s in Prestwich, the best fish and chip shop in Manchester, in three days’ time! – didn’t come into it, but lamb, hot cross buns, simnel cake and, of course, Easter eggs, all did, along with a range of food from different cultures and traditions, and it was all really interesting, and just so nice.

In the Middle Ages, Easter was a time of year often associated with the persecution of non-Christian minorities.  Thankfully, those days have long gone, but yesterday we saw yet more examples of the evil that people carry out in the supposed name of religion.  These two-part series was a gentle, pleasant and very interesting build-up to the springtime festival that combines symbols of Christian, Jewish and pagan traditions.  As I said at the beginning, just think how much better a place the world would be if the only thing anyone did in the name of religion was to eat!